Week 241 · Emirates Stopover · Burj Khalifa · Dubai Creek · Dubai Marina
I hadn't been to Dubai since 2001 — it was outrageous then, completely over the top now. So in selecting my flight option, the Emirates option provided a stopover and with two red-eye flights, a hotel night in the middle was appealing. Glad we did just for the break as well as seeing the city again.
As far as a destination, not sure I would recommend Dubai — the primary activity is shopping and I am really not sure how the endless high-end stores make money, but they do. The activities are all manmade and expensive. Lots of skydiving and Ferrari rentals, but for a cost. If going to South Asia, the Middle East, or Africa — definitely recommend Emirates with a stopover.
In some respects Dubai has not recovered from the great recession as there are still many abandoned projects. Although I had expected growth, there are areas which are the size of US downtown areas, completely built in the last 10–15 years with a cost of $100 billion-plus. Dubai Marina basically looks like Chicago around the river.
Dubai is one of seven emirates that comprise the United Arab Emirates. Its transformation from a small fishing and pearl-diving settlement into a global city occurred almost entirely between 1970 and 2010, driven by oil revenues and the vision of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. The Burj Khalifa — completed in 2010 — stands at 828 metres (2,717 feet), making it the world's tallest building. The structure required engineering solutions for wind loads never before attempted at that scale; at its top, the building sways approximately 1.5 metres in high winds. Expats comprise approximately 88% of Dubai's population — one of the highest proportions in the world. The city's model of imported labour from South and Southeast Asia, living in labour camps on single-status contracts, has been extensively documented by human rights organisations. Dubai received approximately 16 million international visitors in 2018, the year of this visit.
The concept of a benevolent dictator who invests a lot in infrastructure and schools is an interesting concept and works in a small population. Rules are strict (but not as strict as Saudi) but the "social rules" are rarely enforced — so the mix provides a safe place and those from outside UAE are comfortable.
Expats are 80% of the population — with money and without money. Someone has to build all this stuff and it is all imported labour from South Asia and the Philippines — pretty much on single status, living in labour camps. Friends from there say it is much more complicated: an Expat (no matter how much money) will never be on par with a local, and the workers have several groups around religion.
Highlight of the trip was going up the Burj Khalifa — my former company built it and I had a long discussion with the principal architect on various aspects of wind loading at an offsite. For perspective, the top floor is twice the height of the Freedom Tower top floor.
Through the miracle of Facebook, happened to see a friend from Korea in town for the weekend — he had come over from Mumbai for some diving (actually two were in town — missed the other one). We met up at an Irish Pub to catch up and James was kind enough to entertain Sharon while I had a conference call.
"If going to South Asia, the Middle East, or Africa — definitely recommend Emirates with a stopover. Glad we did just for the break as well as seeing the city again."